Basic Leader for musky fly fishing

​​If you ask a dozen musky fly anglers about their leader construction, you will probably receive a dozen varying answers. There are many options. And while I use a few variations during the year to meet certain conditions, my main leader is quite simple and can be constructed in mere minutes.
 
For the main leader I use 30 or 40 pound fluorocarbon of 4 to 8 feet depending on water clarity. For the bite guard I use knotable wire such as the American Fishing Wire surflon micro supreme 7x7 in 26 pound or 40 pound or the Scientific Angler 1x7 nickel titanium wire. A double surgeons provides for a dependable knot between the fluorocarbon and bite guard. Make sure it is carefully constructed and properly seated and that the difference in diameter of the materials isn't significant. A loop-to-loop is another alternative for connecting the fluorocarbon to bite guard. The bite guard is approximately 18 inches in length. This is a good length for performing the figure 8 movement. When the bite guard knot hits the tip top it’s time to roll into the figure 8.
 
For the connection to the fly line a loop-to-loop works well with lower diameter fly lines. If the fly lines doesn't have a manufacturer's welded loop, it can constructed by doubling over the line to form the loop and lashing it down with tying thread. UV knot sealer or crazy glue completes the loop. The loop in the fluoro is constructed with a perfection loop trimmed tight to allow for easy movement through the guides. My preferred connection is an Albright knot trimmed tightly and finished with knot sealer to allow for smooth passage through the guides during the retrieve. I'll also use tying thread to smooth out edges that can catch in the guides of the rod. The Albright is necessary for thicker diameter lines.
 
For the terminal end I have been using a locking snap for easy fly changes and to maintain a consistent length of the bite guard. While I tend to make minimal fly changes during a day, the snap makes it quick and easy for the times when a change seems warranted. For years I used the figure 8 knot with a long tag end. This knot can be backed out and retied to maintain a consistent bite guard length through multiple fly changes. Now I use either a figure 8 knot or 3 to 4 turn improved clinch to secure the locking snap. The improved clinch tends to leave a slight kink in the wire when completed.
 
For a lower profile than that of using the snap, a Homer Rhode loop knot or Lefty non-slip loop knot may be preferred. However, with this approach the bite guard length lessens with each fly change. One solution to this is by using the loop-to-loop connection between the fluorocarbon and bite guard. A separate bite guard is attached to a handful of your favorite flies with a perfection loop at the other end. The perfection loop at the end of the fluoro needs to be large enough to fit over the fly. A fly change is then made by simply exchanging the bite guard and fly through the large loop on the fluorocarbon and carefully seating the loop-to-loop connection.

​Photo: Nick Pionessa