Another trip to Las Buitreras lodge on the Rio Gallegos is behind me but the effects of visiting this wonderful place seem to stick with you long after returning home. The fishing is tactical and challenging complete with gusty winds and ever-changing conditions. And while the pursuit is aimed at sea run brown trout or sea trout, it is the totality of this vast unforgiving region of southern Argentina that completes the full experience.
The trip was enhanced by another stellar Swing the Fly group of Ed, Ray, Milt, Tom, Sam, and Jonathan. And like the prior year the Las Buitreras guides and staff were top notch down to the smallest detail. This year the water maintained a moderate flow with only a slight bump in the level mid-week. While the wind makes casting interesting, it also stirs up the water allowing the sea runs to feel more comfortable and less spooky. However, with mostly clear water conditions smaller flies and paying close attention to presentation was the key to success. Various hothead rubber leg nymphs in sizes 8 or 10 worked well throughout the week. But how the fly was shown to the fish was more important than the actual pattern. Long leaders and fluorocarbon tippet was the starting point. It is important to not go too light on tippet strength in case you cross paths with a 20 plus pound sea run. It was all in the angle of presentation. With a cast at a down river angle and a reach up to conclude the cast the fly shows itself to the fish before the leader or tip. A slight strip or retrieve adds movement and activates the rubber legs. Focusing on this presentation approach simply results in more hookups under clear water conditions. And therein lies the greatest challenge of the wind in consistently getting the fly to land at the proper angle. I find this style of Spey fishing quite captivating as its tactical nature requires a level of focus on each cast. It is not simply a cast, step, and hold on approach. The take can be forceful or subtle further requiring attentiveness to each swing. In the end the most memorable part of the trip occurred on the last evening. While fishing alone, the wind that had been present throughout the week, all at once fell to an eerie dead calm. The silence was heavy and strangely deafening. Senses were heightened while periodically peering around to assure that I wasn’t under the watch of a stalking puma. After landing and releasing one of the best sea trout of the trip, I looked up to see the rock wall on the opposing bank and water turn to fire from the low evening sun peeking through the cloud cover. At first it was difficult to comprehend the spectacular character of the occurrence. But immediately felt the power of the natural world – an incredible moment of spiritual awakening. And a clear lesson in the importance of finding your connection. Southern Argentina is a special place, and a small piece of this wonderful country seems to stay with you upon return.
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